Nation of Brunei, the Abode of Peace

My "sail-in" photo has the obligatory sunlit clouds, but it's unique because of the structures on the horizon discernible by the lights.  The lights aren't a distant cityscape, but flaring natural gas from off-shore drilling rigs.  The oil and natural gas industry has brought incredible wealth to Negara (nation) Brunei Darussalam (abode of peace).  At 2,226 sq. miles, it is roughly the size of Delaware, and has less than half a million residents, but is the 5th richest country in the world!  We visited the capital city, Bandar Seri Begawan, usually just called BSB.

When I started to learn about the ports of call we would be visiting on this world cruise, I couldn't remember previously hearing about Brunei.  I didn't know that the current Sultan, (the country's 29th) is the wealthiest monarch in the world, and after Queen Elizabeth, is the world's second longest-reigning current monarch.  He is an absolute monarch.  He lives in the largest residential palace in the world with 1,788 rooms including 257 bathrooms (with gold toilets), 5 swimming pools, and a 110-car garage.  It is closed to the public except for the three days following Ramadhan when they throw open the doors to receive their subjects, feed them in the dining hall that seats 5,000, and give gifts of money to the children.

There is no income tax in Brunei.  Health care and education are provided by the government.  Public housing is provided for those who don't own land and make less than 50,000 Brunei dollars/year.  Gasoline is $.33/liter.  Seventy percent of the population is Muslim, and 15% are ethnic Chinese.  



The importance of tourism is evident by the welcoming committee at the end of the gangway.  I have always been fascinated by traditional national costumes, so this is one of my favorite parts of traveling.

The tallest building in the capital city is this Ministry of Finance.

Formerly known as Brunei City, BSB was occupied by the Japanese from 1941-1945.  It was heavily bombed by both Japanese and Allied forces, consequently, there are few historical buildings.  The city has been completely rebuilt since the war.  We were taken to this location for a photo opportunity, demonstrating an obvious national pride in the modern architecture.

This building holds the Legislative Council of Brunei.  There are 33 members, made up of cabinet ministers, representatives of districts, the sultan and his son, the crown prince.  All are appointed by the sultan.

With the passing of time, foreign countries start to become less foreign--it's just the Arabic that serves as a reminder.  

Though the Chinese are only 15% of the population, their presence is visible.

We spent some time in a very nice open air market.  The stalls were built of tiled concrete in columns and rows.  There were grated drainage areas so wash water was carried away.  Foods unfamiliar to us were everywhere.

Clockwise from upper left: peppers and greens of some sort, coconuts, tapioca root, plantains.

The top row are different kinds of rice.

These tiny dried fish were displayed so attractively.

Just keep looking until you find the language that makes sense to you.  

We boarded a water taxi to cross the water to Kampong Ayer, sometimes called "the Venice of the East"--one of the water villages that have been inhabited in the area for centuries.  The houses are all on stilts in the middle of the Brunei River.  Our guide told us that he grew up there and learned to swim in the river.

There has been an effort in recent years to upgrade the water villages with concrete stilts and modern houses.  The walkways between these houses even has railing..

unlike in the older sections.  We were taken to a home where local delicacies had been prepared for us.  (Viking doesn't think we can go for more than a couple of hours without being fed.)

Here are examples of the older homes in Kampong Ayer.  There is a strong sense of community in the water villages.  They are served by police and fire departments within the water village and have schools and mosques on the water.  

The landmark of BSB is the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque.  A replica of a 16th century royal barge sits in front of it.  The mosque has 28 domes made of 24-carat gold and holds 3,000 worshipers.  It was constructed by and named after the 28th sultan, the father of the current leader. 

The current sultan built the Jame' 'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah mosque in conjunction with the anniversary of the 25th year of his reign.  It holds 5,000.

Brunei is a tiny country on the island of Borneo, the third largest island in the world.  Our guide gave us the impression that the people are well cared for by the government.   Tomorrow we will be in port in Kota Kinabalu, Maylaysia.  All I know about Borneo is that there were wild men at one time.  It will be interesting to learn more about it.